One of D.C.’s Most Historic Neighborhoods is Home to a Vibrant Restaurant Scene, Unique Retail, Off-The-Beaten-Path Museums, History Tours and More
By: Leona Baker
DC.’s Capitol Hill inevitably conjures images of lawmakers and lobbyists, politics, and protests. But this iconic neighborhood in the heart of the nation’s capital also happens to be a really vibrant place to visit, whether for a weekend getaway or a work retreat.
If you are a lover of history, art, books or food—or, like me, all the above —Capitol Hill is a veritable treasure trove of flavors and finds waiting to be savored and explored.
As I discovered during a recent stay that included two nights at the Royal Sonesta Capitol Hill, the only new hotel to open in the Capitol Hill neighborhood in the last 40 years, the sweeping grandeur of the U.S. Capitol Rotunda and the hallowed halls of the Supreme Court aren’t the only attractions worth trekking to.
These walkable blocks of late 19th- and early 20th-century rowhouses are also home to a lively restaurant and nightlife scene, unique retail therapy experiences, off-the-beaten-path museums, atypical history tours, and more. Read on for a few tasty travel tips, ideas for eating out, and excursions that probably weren’t part of your middle school field trip.
Getting there is easier than ever via Amtrak, which delivers you to nearby Union Station and offers free Wi-Fi. This allows you to veto the perils of D.C. traffic and parking in favor of reading a book, answering a few work emails, catching up on a favorite show, visiting the cafe car or doing some good old-fashioned window gazing.
I arrived in D.C. after a leisurely four-hour train ride. The Southeast Regional line departs from Lynchburg’s historic Kemper Street station and slowly ambles across the James River before meandering the tree-lined countryside of our lovely Commonwealth between brief stops in Charlottesville, Culpeper, and Northern Virginia.
The Royal Sonesta Capitol Hill is located just a block and a half from Union Station. Opened in 2023 in a stunningly renovated former office building, it is one of two Royal Sonesta hotels in D.C. and part of a signature portfolio of hotels in destination cities known for their elevated yet “unstuffy” designs and playful touches.
If you happen to arrive early by train and find yourself famished and in need of a Guinness and a shepherd’s pie, like I did, stop along the way to the hotel at The Dubliner Restaurant & Pub. It will fortify you for any shenanigans to follow.
If you prefer a cultural outing to kick off your stay, stash your bags with the concierge and head just across the street to the Smithsonian National Postal Museum, a lesser-known gem that is home to the world’s largest collection of stamps, letters, stationery, postal materials and artifacts—including the packaging jeweler Harry Winston once used to mail the Hope Diamond for just $2.44 in postage.
Artistic Touches and Busy Beavers at the Royal Sonesta
Entering the Royal Sonesta Capitol Hill lobby, one can’t help but be immediately intrigued by the curated art adorning the walls, a distinctive feature inspired by the “forces of change” and historic moments associated with the hotel’s location.
Behind a row of check-in desks hang laser-cut metallic sculptures patterned after late Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg’s famed collars. Suspended above conversational seating in the lobby is a frenetic collection of Martin Luther King Jr. quotes that taper into a tryptic punctuated by the piece’s title, “Only Love Can Do That.”
Above the entrance to the hotel’s restaurant, a mixed media mural depicting the 1913 Woman Suffrage Procession is surrounded by white cherry blossoms. The artistic theme carries throughout the hotel with visual references to many movers, shakers, and deal makers—from the Kennedys’ Camelot mystique to Elvis’ bizarre Oval Office moment with Richard Nixon.
Also a can’t-miss is the hotel’s mascot, a regally adorned beaver dubbed “The Knight of Capitol Hill.” His toothy visage greets guests from a formal, gold-framed portrait near the elevators and is featured on the decorative pillows in the guest rooms. The beaver was selected because “no one works harder than the beaver, just like the people of Washington,” and he is one of many dapperly dressed animal mascots at Royal Sonesta hotels.
Another calling card of the Royal Sonesta Capitol Hill is the size of the guest rooms, the largest average square foot per room for any hotel in D.C. Indeed, when I opened the door to my “King Room with Capital City View,” the thought crossed my mind that I could probably hold a small ballroom dance class between the bed and the television.
Luckily, there is an actual ballroom and a terrace on the 11th floor for that sort of thing, complete with lovely views of the LEED Certified building’s green roof, the adjacent NoMa neighborhood, the stately brick Government Print Office (where congressional bills and other government documents are printed) and, yes, sunsets behind the Washington Monument in the distance.
The guest rooms are sleek and modern with calming gray and blue tones complemented by soft salmon accents. The hotel also has an unusual, enclosed 10-story atrium featuring a striking glass art installation depicting a map of the city. There is a well-appointed fitness center and even a yoga studio—where I took a relaxing turn on the mat with the hotel’s lovely instructor, Radiance, on my final morning before departing.
A Walk Through Women’s History, Books and The Bard
While stops at the most well-trodden government buildings, historic landmarks and museums ought to be on every D.C. tourist’s bucket list, there are oodles of other options, especially for history buffs and bibliophiles.
One of my all-time favorites is the Library of Congress. Situated behind the Capitol, it is the world’s largest library, home to more than 164 million items, from books, photos, recordings, and maps to the contents of Abraham Lincoln’s pockets on the day he was assassinated. But the real jaw-dropper is the gorgeous late-19th century Jefferson Building that holds the collection, an ornate masterpiece of the Gilded Age.
I also thoroughly enjoyed “The Women Who Climbed Capitol Hill,” a unique walking tour hosted by A Tour of Her Own, the first D.C. tourism company to focus exclusively on women’s history. The tour included stops at important sites in the fight for women’s suffrage. The company offers a variety of themed tours, from the “Wild Women of Watergate” to “Black Feminist D.C.”
For fans of The Bard, The Folger Library just across the street from The Library of Congress is another must-visit. Re-opened in June of 2024 after a major four-year renovation and $80.5 million expansion, The Folger houses the world’s largest collection of Shakespeare materials including First Folios of Shakespeare’s plays and other rare books and manuscripts.
Speaking of the printed word, no book lover’s visit to the Capitol Hill neighborhood is complete without a stop at Capitol Hill Books. This legendary independent bookstore, originally founded by Bill Kerr—who also worked at The Washington Post—is known for its three-story, packed-to-the-ceiling inventory of used, rare, and first-edition books.
Tasty Market Finds, Bistro Delights and Delicious Duck
All that reading and browsing is bound to work up an appetite, and there is much on the menu for hungry travelers in this neck of Washington’s woods.
A good way to start your culinary exploration is at Eastern Market, a historic market that has been continually functioning since 1873 and is recognizable by its elongated brick facade. The market’s vendors sell fresh produce, baked goods, pasta, deli items, and more, and there is a weekend bazaar with food, art, crafts and antiques.
Bistro Du Jour, located at The Royal Sonesta Capitol Hill and accessible via the hotel’s lobby, is a delightful French-inspired bistro offering a taste of “Paris on the Potomac.” Alongside traditional Croque Madame, French Onion Soup and Duck Confit, you’ll find a full menu of French comfort classics in a cozy but elegant setting. They also serve breakfast, brunch, lunch and happy hour specials.
I happily sampled craft cocktails from a special menu showcasing Grey Goose Vodka at the Bistro Du Jour bar, including the La Goutte, with Grey Goose Citron, ginger, clove, nutmeg, and lemon. Dinner was a luxurious feast of Butter-Poached Lobster and orzo risotto with truffled crème fraîche.
If you want to fuel up for a busy day, the Bistro’s breakfast selections are a bit simpler and more moderately priced—a slice of quiche or a yogurt parfait—though just as artfully presented as lunch and dinner.
The nearby “micro-neighborhood” of Barracks Row boasts a high concentration of foodie destinations centered on 8th Street, including the Michelin starred Rose’s Luxury and its sister restaurant Pineapple & Pearls.
I capped off my D.C. dining adventure with a wonderful meal served family style at the James Beard Award–nominated and woman-owned The Duck & The Peach on 7th Street. Featuring a New American menu by way of California and New England with Mediterranean flourishes, the heart of The Duck & The Peach experience is a French-made gas rotisserie.
Succulent duck, chicken, and lamb are slowly cooked to mouthwatering perfection before being served in shareable portions accompanied by seasonal greens, roasted vegetables, and other sublimely sourced accompaniments.
Opening acts like the Beluga Caviar with yucca, whipped ricotta, and scallion or the Baby Carrots with harissa crunch, labneh, and dill, set the stage, while the Jurgielewicz Duck with watercress panzanella and citrus vinaigrette stole the show.
Adjoining The Duck & The Peach are two other offerings from owner Hollis Silverman including The Wells, a charming gin-focused cocktail bar with an upscale speakeasy vibe, and La Collina, a neighborhood Italian spot.
There ought to be a law against how much I enjoyed this tasty trip through one of D.C.’s most well-known yet hidden-in-plain site neighborhoods. By the time I hopped back on the train at Union Station with a book in hand, I was happy just to digest and unwind as the miles rolled away outside my window seat. But a return trip is definitely in store for a future chapter.
Learn more about D.C. neighborhoods, attractions, hotels, and dining at washington.org. Explore the Royal Sonesta Capitol Hill and other Sonesta properties at sonesta.com.
Author: VisitVirginia
